Simon Porte Jacquemus is a born storyteller, weaving a personal narrative around each collection. Morocco is where he often heads after the shows to recharge, so he decided to dedicate his fall collection, titled “Le Souk,” to those sun-soaked escapades. Who cares if the season is fall?
He opened with a rippling cream tunic that read at first like a djellaba, but was in fact an oversized jumpsuit, its swirling pant legs almost indistinguishable. Then came clingy sheer knits: a nude bodysuit, and a long, pale blue scoop-necked dress that was split to the thigh.
It was clear that local dress codes weren’t going to cramp the designer’s natural hedonism; no cultural appropriation here. He layered miniskirts under long split skirts (modesty panels, if you like), while a black shirt dress was yanked open to frame the collarbone. “I took only the colors and the good energy of Morocco,” he said backstage.
Jacquemus named his brand after his late mother, but lately, he’s been broadening his horizons. “I’ve come to realize the Jacquemus woman has many faces. It’s not just a French girl who looks like my mother. It was ridiculous to think that, but I was young. And now I’ve understood it’s a lot of different things – but always the sun,” he said.
Working a warm palette of earth and spice tones, dotted with accents of blue, green and black, he sent out loose shirts and dresses, draped and knotted around the body, that breathed an easy sensuality, accentuated by extra long chains dangling from a single ear. He reprised some designs, like pleated palazzo and capri pants, plus new variations on last season’s oversized floppy sun hat, as seen on Jessica Chastain on a recent magazine cover.
If Morocco conjures images of Yves Saint Laurent, that subtext wasn’t running through this collection, though Jacquemus revealed a recent visit to the YSL museum in Marrakesh had moved him to tears.
Rather there were echoes of another designer from the south of France: Christian Lacroix, who sat in the front row. As he took his bow, Jacquemus stopped in front of Lacroix to kiss him on both cheeks.
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