Most recently, Ms. Piersanti worked with Mr. Guadagnino on “Suspiria,” a new version of Dario Argento’s 1977 cult classic, scheduled for release this year. “I designed an entire wardrobe from scratch,” she said of the Amazon Studio horror movie. “Everything from accessories to outerwear, and dresses, to prints.”
The result was so extensive that, Ms. Piersanti said, manufacturing the collection and selling it through the online giant’s fashion division in conjunction with the film’s release was considered, although no deal has been signed.
Tilda Swinton, who stars in “Suspiria” along with Dakota Johnson and Chloë Grace Moretz, said Ms. Piersanti “thinks and works way beyond fashion and the conventional bounds of costume design,” adding that she “designed exquisite prints for blouses and dresses, glimpsed for an instant — at most — in the film, but imbuing the film with a sense of specialness, heightened reality, critical to the atmosphere of the world we made.”
The film, set in the ’70s, centers on a young American ballet dancer (Ms. Johnson) who travels to a prestigious Berlin dance academy only to discover its sinister and supernatural secrets.
As with “Call Me by Your Name,” Ms. Piersanti bypassed the usual sartorial tropes of the ’70s, with her research producing voluminous silhouettes rather than bell-bottoms. During a visit to the film’s set at the Grand Hotel Campo dei Fiori in Varese, Italy, slinky blood-red macramé dresses with bondage elements hung in a makeshift dressing room next to hair tunics that resembled nothing so much as long brunette versions of Martin Margiela’s famous wig-coat from spring 2009. And Ms. Piersanti’s aunt, Laura Urbinati, created dance leotards in the “muddy” palette that the designer requested.
“I can’t see myself working without Giulia for my next endeavors,” Mr. Guadagnino said, adding that the two “are already plotting new worlds to create.”
Before that, however, comes fashion week. Ms. Piersanti will be in Paris before moving on to Los Angeles and the Oscars, which she will attend with Mr. Guadagnino. She’s considering wearing a pink Céline style from last spring’s collection to the ceremony.
“My peers find it difficult to comprehend I can work well in both environments,” she said before leaving her apartment to take a plane to London. “I’m lucky I guess. A lot of people don’t get to do what I do.”
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