Sunday 30 September 2018

Poiret RTW Spring 2019 – WWD


This summer’s heat wave has lingered in more ways than one. Not only have the temperatures in Paris this week been unseasonably warm, but the catwalks have also been awash with breezy fabrics and vibrant color.

At Poiret, it was as if a Saharan wind had blown through the collection, carrying with it the colors of ocher dunes and indigo Tuareg veils. For her sophomore outing at the recently revived French heritage label, Yiqing Yin sent out gently draped clothes that swirled around the body, promising sweet relief from scorching weather.

There were hints of sari draping in a pink dress, while pants came in billowing sarouel shapes, paired with a workwear-inspired shirt or a trim leather jacket. She beefed up her daywear with the introduction of denim, and a terrific selection of outerwear, including a white trenchcoat with a softly pleated shoulder panel.

Yin collaborated with artist Bernard Frize on striped patterns that she warped with layers of gauzy crinkled knits. The two share an unerring sense for color harmonies. The designer layered hot pink chiffon over burnt orange satin, and played a harmony of pastels on a crinkled tank top and shorts, coolly topped with a robe coat.

These clothes were made to be seen in movement. Watching slow-motion footage of a rippling pleat-fronted dress, in one of Frize’s stripe patterns, was more powerful than any meditation app.



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