What’s With Triple Cleansing?
Double and triple cleansing are ideas that sprang from the Korean and Japanese beauty crazes of recent years. The traditional K-beauty scenario involves using an oil-based cleanser to break down makeup. And because some makeup, especially waterproof and long-wear formulas, is oil based, it breaks down best with oil.
Then, because the oil cleanser leaves a residue, which is now mixed with the dirt and makeup, you follow it with “a traditional water-based foaming cleanser, which removes the oils and butters that the balms or oils leave on skin,” said Tiffany Masterson, the founder of Drunk Elephant. Problems pop up when you start washing with two water-based cleansers, which can result in over-cleansing (see more below).
If you have dry skin and want some oil residue, Ms. Masterson offers this hack: Use a water-based cleanser to get the grime off, then use the oil cleanser.
Really, Should You Wash Just Once a Day?
If you subscribe to Ms. Masterson’s theory on skin barrier maintenance, you should not be washing your face morning and night. “If you have a good skin-care routine, you should cleanse at night to get the grime and makeup off,” she said. “Then add your serums and moisturizers, and while you’re sleeping, you’re nourishing your acid mantle. You don’t want to wash that off in the morning.”
Many people who have sensitive skin may simply be overwashing. “The industry is trying to sell as much as possible,” Dr. Sturm said. Over-cleansing, she said, “takes the skin’s lipids away and destroys skin barrier function, which in turn allows bacteria to enter and cause breakouts, redness, irritation, neurodermatitis and decreased natural resistance to UVA and UVB rays.”
Everyone should wash once a day, she said, and twice only if your skin tolerates it well.
To Exfoliate or Not to Exfoliate
Over-cleansing and over-exfoliating go hand in hand. Be wary of cleansers loaded with acids, Ms. Masterson said. “It’s completely gimmicky to add all those acids, because cleansers are a rinse-off product, and you’d want your glycolic acid, for example, to have the chance to penetrate.”
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